Monday, May 13, 2013

Greece - Sun & Water

Ten days relaxing in Greece resulted in a serious vacation hangover!  Now we are back at it - the daily grind in Frankfurt; learning to walk, coaxing out words ("Mom!") and daily food fights not to mention getting a lot of use out of our new bicycle and loving it.

But, Greece, WOW!  Definitely a place that beckons one to take pause, rest, relax and enjoy the simple things in life.  And to be in awe of the natural world.  On so many of our excursions thus far we are running around, cramming in sites and soaking up history so this trip to Greece was very welcomed for the slow pace, fresh food and expert insider guides (we traveled with friends and stayed with their family).


Hard to believe that we were in Athens after only a three hour flight - pinch me!  From there we headed to Sounio where we stayed at a very chic resort, Cape Sounio Grecotel, my first time at a place of this kind.  Luckily it is not high tourism season so the rates were reasonable.  These are not the places we normally stay, but they sure are conducive to relaxation.


View from our hotel room.

Waiting for sunset at the ruins.
 The resort offered a grand view of the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon, which were breathtaking to see up close and in person.  It is not everyday that one can stand so close to ancient history.  And at sunset, well, there are no words, but I did feel enchanted and at peace.

Fresh food.  I must admit that I didn't know what to expect, whether I would like the food or not was a big question for me leading up to our departure.  Everyone was quoting "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" when John Corbett's character is offered lamb because he is a vegetarian.  Well, I was pleasantly surprised and enjoyed the very fresh and local food.
Ruins of the Temple of Poseidon

The ruins and a lone olive tree.

Solace.

Good night to the beautiful sun.  



After three nights in Sounio we headed to Volos to our friend's parents home.  The family was wonderful and welcoming and great cooks too.  They had a great little plot of land on the mountain side city where they grew so many things.  I found myself wandering around admiring their gardens, studying the hens in the chicken coop and pining for my own plot of land and little farm.

We visited several little beaches and towns during our stay in Volos.  Everywhere we went the water was insanely blue, the food was fresh and delicious and the views were unreal.  Speaking of food...I was adventurous, so adventurous I surprised myself, but when in Rome...you know.  Well when in Greece, I tried (and liked) octopus, mussels and the rice served with them was the best thing ever and we ate a ton of fresh fish.  I know, I said I was a vegetarian - technically if you like labels I think you'd call me an ovo-lacto Pescetarian.  I ate fresh and local and that is what is important to me.  But octopus!!!  Still surprised by that leap into the culinary unknown.  




Road trip!

One day we drove over Mount Pilion - a healthy verdant ecosystem - to the Aegean Sea side in a small village called Agios Ioannis (I still can not pronounce this correctly).  We spent time at the beach and eating at a little seaside Tabepna (pronounced Taverna, yes like a tavern).  The food was quite possibly the best of all the restaurants we ate at the whole trip.  Simply blissful!
Bridge to paradise....maybe

Agios Ioannis on the Aegean Sea.  Beach.  Love it.  
We did find that relaxing at the beach and sun bathing are quite impossible with a toddler especially one who likes to eat rocks!

Taste testing the rocks of Agios Ioannis.

We spent an afternoon walking around the isolated mountain town of Makrinitsa.  Locals call this special village "The Balcony of Volos" because of the spectacular views over Volos.
View from Makrinitsa - "The Balcony of Volos" 

Crazy roads - there are few if any cars and only on some of the roads.

Water running to the left is part of an intricate and interesting irrigation system.
We were in Greece over Greek Orthodox Easter, which is a very big deal and loaded with tradition.  Travis and I both participated in our own regard.  On their 'Good Friday' night I joined in on the procession from the village church up the hill to another church and back down again.  The procession is symbolic of the death of Jesus so it was like funeral procession.  It was dark out and everyone was carrying long beeswax candle sticks - the experience was pretty cool and felt unifying even though I did not understand what people around me were talking about - I was happy to just be a part of the tradition.  Then on Easter Sunday - we ate hard boiled eggs with the shells dyed red - only red in Greek Orthodox tradition.  For the main event on Sunday the family was roasting a goat - ugh! - poor thing was...well, hard to look at so I tried to avoid it.  My loving husband reassured me that the goat tasted like he lived a happy life.  Well, Travis thoroughly enjoyed his Greek Easter participation followed by an afternoon siesta.

Our last full day of vacation we spent time in Afissos to celebrate our friend Jorgo's name day.  In Greece rather than celebrate your birthday they celebrate your name day - what a great idea and you don't have to remember birth dates.  The beach in Afissos is lovely.

Happy baby!

Afissos.

Feeling filled up with gratitude for all these amazing travel opportunities, wonderful people we've met along the way and for Hannah being such a flexible happy traveler.


Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Amsterdam Revisited....In Search of Tulips

I had the opportunity to take a trip to Amsterdam and the surrounding area again this past weekend.  A chance to see the tulips that I missed out on two weeks ago....or so I hoped.  Plus, the tour was with a group that would also visit Delft and Volendam with a very knowledgeable and entertaining guide.  Did I mention that it was also my first weekend away from my one year old daughter!  A much needed break for Mom :)

Our first stop was Delft, but along the way we stopped or at least drove by some very old windmills.




Delft was a sweet little city famous for its blue and white ceramic wares.  And Hello sunshine...Finally felt like Spring!

Souvenir shop selling the famous blue & white wares

Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) Protestant Church in  Delft Market Square

Decorative and colorful wooden tulips (for sale everywhere) with Delft  wares in the background

A view from behind City Hall with bikes parked everywhere
Next we headed to the Keukenhof Gardens with our fingers crossed that the tulips would be in bloom.  Well, since Spring didn't arrive in Europe until this week, the tulips were not really blooming.  There were a couple early varieties showing colorful blooms and tons of Crocus.  However, they had several indoor displays of flowers - one whole building full of tulips.  Enough for me to take over 100 pictures of flowers ;)

Flower beds of green awaiting us

Crocus making it feel like Spring

Some early tulips

One of my favorites

Colorful blooms abound....inside

Happy faces

The colors are so amazing!

Tulips, outside, in a bowl of course

Souvenir wooden clogs

My windmill shot (like the popular ones you can imagine) not so colorful
Next onto the hotel, on the North Sea, in Ijmuiden.  What an interesting place, especially in the off season.  We arrived at dusk and right before dinner so I unfortunately didn't get a chance to wander over to the WWII bunker tucked into the sand dunes.  However, I did wake up early the next morning so I could walk over to the North Sea beach.  Wish I had more time to explore this misty, sleepy seaside.  The little cottages along the beach look so very interesting (Trip Advisor has some better pictures as does Google).

View from hotel room, overlooking the harbor

Eerie & empty, the beach had about a dozen restaurants lining the dune

A lonely empty beach in the off season

Beach parking for bikes - love this!
We left Ijmuiden at 8am and headed to Amsterdam....in the rain wondering if the sun would shine.  Once in Amsterdam, I decided to wait in line for the Anne Frank House Museum, which I highly recommend, but order tickets online in advance.  The weather was overcast and wet (unlike the forecast reported) so no reason not to see this historical land mark.  Afterwards I wandered around by myself (a sweet indulgence, concerned only with what I wanted, how rare!) and stopped into my favorite restaurant Greenwoods for a cappuccino   Amsterdam is such a beautiful and friendly city.

The Anne Frank House Museum (very busy)

Prinsen Canal

One of my favorite restaurants, Greenwoods, great food and energy
Condom Shop in the Red Light District 

Looking toward the Central Railway Station 

After a few hours in Amsterdam we all met back up and headed to the home of Edam cheese, Volendam about a half hour away.  This is a cute little seaside gem of a tourist trap.  Here one can walk along the water and a smattering of tourist shops.  I highly recommend making your way past the tourist shops and stopping into the antique/second hand clothing store, BLIJ! aan de dijk located at Zuideinde 9.  The town itself is quaint and small with a great seaside view.

Seaside (makes me long for Lake Michigan)

Alley way with the sound of chickens clucking

Tons of restaurants mixed in along the stores

Boats galore of all shapes and sizes
  
A really great trip, well deserved and much needed vacation for this mom.  So much to see and do as the time continues to fly by....

Cheers!

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Staying Connected

Living in a foreign country where you don't know the language can sometimes feel like living in a bubble at least when it comes to knowing what is going on in the news locally.  I normally found the evening news depressing back home, but still had many other sources of information.

A couple sources for those of you living in Germany and wanting German news (in English!)......

The Spiegel - a popular German magazine has a small condensed English version on their website
http://www.spiegel.de/international/

The Local - German news in English
http://www.thelocal.de/

DW
http://www.dw.de/

I'm still trying to read the German newspapers, watch films and listening to German radio in an effort to learn the language...honestly I naively thought learning German would be easier.  HA!

Cheers!

Friday, April 5, 2013

Amsterdam

A long weekend in the world famous Amsterdam.  Known for its canals, tulips, bikes, cheese, pancakes, the red light district and yes, decriminalized marijuana - all these reasons had people from all over the globe flocking there this past holiday weekend.  Many who were hoping to see tulips, were undoubtedly  let down with temperatures not nearly warm enough and yes, snow flurries on Saturday and Sunday morning - much to my dismay.  Where is Spring anyway!
Bike Parking outside Central Station - A sight to be seen

Regardless, we made the best of our time and crammed in as much as Hannah would allow ;)  *Yes, there are lots of traveling with toddlers and the art of learning to readjust your expectations stories behind that smiling face.  Live and learn.

We arrived by train on Friday afternoon, bundled up and ready to experience Amsterdam and all it's glory.  The city is beautiful, so much more European than Frankfurt, but then that is not hard to do.  We promptly made dinner reservations for the whole weekend - since it was Easter weekend places were bound to be packed and well, Travis doesn't like it when I turn into Betty White because I am hungry!

Next we were off wandering around, in search of the infamous Dutch Pancake.  We wandered along a meandering coffee shop filled shopping street taking in all the sights and yes, the pervasive aroma of Mary Jane.  So very different than any place we have been.  Pancakes were not hard to locate either - YAY!


On Saturday we rented bikes - to Hannah's dismay as it was pretty chilly and the cold air hitting her face seemed to be an instant switch for screaming.  So the bikes didn't last very long and we found our way back to the hotel so that she could nap for two hours.  *Expectation adjustment #1: yes, we are sitting in a quiet hotel room in Amsterdam reading, not out enjoying the sights - deal with it and be glad she is napping before taking her all over the city again and then sitting through a dinner.  She really is a great traveler.


We crammed in as much as we could on Saturday with the luxury of our wheeled transportation and custom sound effects, thank you Hannah.  All in all it wasn't so bad, when the wind stilled.  We made it to the floating flower market and cheese store.  Must sees.
Tulips and Flowers and more Tulips
Flower Bulbs
More bulbs....creating angst for Spring!
Cheese - Gouda my favorite
We also made it to the Albert Cuyp Market - not my favorite.  After returning the bikes we had dinner at the Haesje Claes restaurant that had good reviews on Trip Adviser.  Did I mention that everyone speaks English and the people are SO friendly.  I loved it.  A breath of warm fresh air coming from Frankfurt.

*Expectation adjustment #2:  It is 8pm and we are sitting in the dark hotel room staring at each other as Hannah sleeps peacefully.  OK, reading too and drinking the bottle of wine we picked up, but each thinking and feeling like WOW! here we are in Amsterdam, once in a life time trip, hanging out in the hotel room.  Be glad she is sleeping and so peacefully in an unfamiliar place.  It could be worse!

Sunday was equally as cold, less windy and significantly sunnier - YAY!  We walked everywhere from the north of the city (?) near Central Station to the southern (?) area to Vondel Park, a great big park with a couple nice cafes.  Then back again....for Hannah's nap.  Although she can sleep in the back pack and did for an hour, a little more rest before dinner seemed ideal.

The Cheese Museum & Shop
The Tulip Museum & Shop

Church near Vondel Park

I recommend the Cheese Museum, the guys in there are very nice and the cheeses are well, delicious.  Also, I very highly recommend eating at Greenwood's on the Singel Canal and at the De Bakkerswinkel (a few locations).  We visited the Nemo Science Museum for kids - a very cool museum however, crazy busy with kids everywhere since it was a holiday.  The building alone is something to see.  If you have kids then I definitely recommend making a stop here.

We really enjoyed walking around the canals and looking at the architecture.  There is never a bad time for a coffee and pancake :)

Cheers!

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Language & Laughs

One has to be able to laugh at oneself and see the humor in life.  Sometimes I find myself laughing out loud at myself.....like I did today after completing a Google translation for something that I've been seeing in the produce section at the local Rewe grocery store.

On all of the produce signs there is listed the name, price and country of origin.  This time of year few things besides apples are from Germany.  So buying local can be difficult, but this is very important to me so I do my best to buy local or at least from close neighbors.  Most fruits and veggies are arriving from Spanien (Spain), Italien (Italy), Argentinien (Argentina), Peru, Süd Afrika (South Africa), etc.  There are many labels, at least at Rewe that read Declaration of Etikett???

Organic (Bio) Lemons from Spanien (Spain)
These Oranges appear to be from "Declaration of Etikett"???




I had never heard of "Declaration of Etikett" before and this bothered me.  So much of the produce had this where others listed a familiar country.  Not to mention this "Declaration of Etikett" was growing everything from eggplants and potatoes to onions and lettuce and strawberries.  I was baffled and needed to know where on the globe this place was that was growing so much - sounded exotic.

So, I consulted Google.  No results.  So then I found my way to Translate and typed in "Declaration of Etikett".  Drum roll please......Etikett = Label.  HAHAHA!!!!  Yes, I laughed out loud at myself.  This is not a place after all, but just a generic label for the rapidly overturning stock of produce from wherever the label reads.  HA!

Well, there is my cultural language lesson of the week.  Still giggling on the inside ; )

Cheers!